On a trip to Shandong, China, at the end of January 2020, a few days after the lockdown of Wuhan, I watched a video of a stewed bat on Douyin – the Chinese video-sharing app. The bat sat in a bowl of soup, its boiled skin drawn back across its face to reveal its teeth, almost as if maliciously grinning. …
From Bat Soup to Bean Sprouts: Coronavirus Food Fears in Historical Perspective
This article is part of the series: Dispatches from the pandemic